"The most beautiful thing we can experience is the
mysterious."
-Einstein
TWILIGHT ZONE
African conga
drums pounded erotically under the full equatorial moon.
Only five hundred yards from the roomy, white, New
England-styled mission church, twelve drummers gyrated
on a precipice that hung over the sea. Hollowed teak
logs, capped with gazelle skins, rocked between taut
thighs. Flecks of white, thousands of tiny moon mirrors
glistened and
dripped from sweaty bodies. These men would stop
beating, only when the golden sun rose.
Moonlight! ...a
cause for celebration. The mysterious silver disc,
swollen by heat and humidity, washed the jungle like a
brilliant movie set - but only once a month.
"Let there be
light!" ...and Maurice finally understood, for because
of this light, neither demon spirits, nor the
carnivorous beasts that haunt tropic corridors, would
prowl this evening. Tonight, all night, the people were
free!
* * * * * * * * * *
*
Old man Blamo
shuffled toward the altar. A teak crutch, his strongest
leg, thumped the concrete floor authoritatively. Its
hypnotic rhythm mesmerized Maurice, as it echoed off the
walls and pews of the almost empty sanctuary. Blamo's
head swirled in and out of the thick cloud of incense
that hovered, eerily. His stained, light tan, Brooks
Brothers sport coat flickered in the candlelight, then
disappeared in the fog and darkness. Two small candles
of pure beeswax waned while the pre-dawn liturgy
continued.
The seminarian
squinted through eyes, blinded by sweat and high fever.
As old man Blamo approached, tawny light danced upon his
beautifully carved cane. Rich village scenes of huts,
drums, gazelles and sandals adorned the appendage. The
darker, repoussé area of this African masterpiece
matched his weathered face.
It was June, 1974;
five in the morning. The place: Grand Cess, Liberia,
West Africa! The novice was thousands of miles from
South Burlington, Vermont, his birthplace. Far, far from
home, as he wished. Far, far, from family.
For the past two
years, he had studied Liberation Theology at a Catholic
theological school, perched tranquilly on a hilltop,
overlooking the Hudson River, in Westchester County, New
York. Originally a Shaolin Monastery from Mainland
China, it had been shipped -pagoda by pagoda- to America
during the last Chinese revolution. Amid the
transplanted bronze
Buddhist bells, silk tapestries and incense, he had
studied, meditated, and practiced martial arts,
preparing for missionary work in the heart of Africa.
On his last
afternoon in America, he had eaten lunch at the Russian
New York, watched the controversial Rock Opera, Jesus
Christ, Superstar, then boarded the red eyed special for
Dakar, where it refueled before arriving in Monrovia.
Later, by Piper cub, he had flown three hundred miles
further, southeast, deep into the jungle.
Each boarding had
been a quantum leap back in time. He had traded the
brilliant skyline of New York City for that of Dakar,
where on this edge of Africa, only a few tall buildings
stood, dim lighthouses before the foreboding, deep blue
sea. In these dark, tempestuous waters, high-masted,
creaking, wooden slave ships had prowled the swells,
barely a century ago, filling their bowels with
shackled, stinking, human treasure. Once overloaded,
they sheeted canvas taught, following Saharan trade
winds West, to that great continent of freedom -
America.
From
French-African Dakar, he had flown on to Monrovia.
There, one ten-story building stood, single and alone.
Then, onward again, into that primal womb of lush rain
forest, where only verdant, dripping canopy scraped the
sky.
In these tropics,
amid liana and tangled vines that embraced ancient
trees, with branches interlocking hundreds of feet above
carpets of musk-scented, giant ferns, he had been reborn
- this time - by choice; dropped from the heavens by a
noisy, aluminum stork, into the center of five hundred
huts.
Now, each night in
the jungle, he watched dark, polygamous figures pound
animal skin drums, while others danced around fire
teeming with writhing magical spirits.
* * * * * * * * * *
*
Old man Blamo's
thumping cane stopped. He stood before Peter, the
priest, and Maurice, the seminarian. Monkeys deep in the
forest awoke and began chattering. The drumming outside
ended, as dawn approached. In his feverish state, it
seemed to Maurice that everything was happening in slow
motion.
The sun was about
to crack the darkness. He loved that mysterious moment
when the black sheet of night parted, birthing the
yellow orb, ending the chronic nightmares he had had
since childhood. Each morning, he longed for its
soothing light, but today was different. Just the
thought - twelve hours of searing brilliance and intense
humidity - left him queasy.
Large beads of
sweat disappeared into his thick, curly black beard,
falling from the ringlets like full monsoon drops, onto
the white robe, which was already pasted against his
broad chest.
A swollen,
severely infected thumb jabbed him with pain. One week
ago, he had nicked it. The tiny cut, a quarter inch
long, healed quickly, but only after an equatorial germ
had found its way in. It was now devouring the swollen
flesh. He winced with agony and closed his eyes, as the
child within offered the fever to the heavens above,
while the man in him feared the gods might be asleep.
Smoldering, stale
incense made his nausea worse, but the seminarian
managed to hold the paten steady for the young priest.
Though they were born the same year, Father Peter had
decided that twenty-four was not too young for
ordination. Maurice glanced at this pony-tailed
clergyman. They were neither friends, nor enemies.
Blamo coughed
dryly, signaling his presence by the altar for
communion. The African pulled himself up in an officious
manner before Peter, who held the golden chalice that
cordoned ten sacred, white wafers. Blamo's gray head
reached the breast level of the two six-foot
missionaries. The old man belonged to the short, stocky
Kru tribe; a fishing people adept
at handling ten foot hollowed logs far out at sea.
Maurice glanced
from the crutch to the mans right pant leg. It swayed
loosely from the thigh down, hiding his amputated leg.
He raised the paten to Blamo's neck. The old man eyed
the novices swaddled thumb warily. This African feared
that the demons who caused it to swell five times its
normal size, might jump to his body.
The seminarian
took a closer look at the sport coat. It surprised him
how well it blended with Blamo's brown skin. The ragged,
breast pocket had been torn off, but it was re-stitched
with red thread, like the patches hippies had sewn onto
their jeans, a few years back. The coat had no buttons
and his frayed twine belt, made from palm leaves,
dangled six inches below his waist. If only the New
Yorker, who had donated this part of his stock brokers
uniform to some humanitarian organization, could see it
now, still in service and worn with such religious zeal!
The seminarians
eyes shifted to the thin metal disc he held. Rust peeked
from underneath the flaking, fake gold paten, corroding
it with small, cancerous red pits. Like everything else
on the equator, humidity and heat were slowly consuming
it. The bodies of Christ, were they to tumble, stood a
better chance of remaining untainted on the swept,
concrete floor.
Blamo popped out
his tongue. It darted easily from a nearly toothless
mouth, looking odd against his chestnut face. Deep
ripples lined each side. There was something about all
his movements, Maurice mused, that was too forced, too
quick. The novice wondered whether the disease that
afflicted the Africans tongue was connected to the loss
of his leg.
"The body of
Christ," Peter announced slowly ... officially.
"Amen, Fala,"
Blamo responded militarily.
Father Peter
dropped the wafer on the ragged thing and quickly
withdrew his hand, not wanting any of the mans spit to
get on his fingers. Blamo stood there like a pouting
child, his tongue hanging out, eyes closed
sanctimoniously. The white wafer began to dissolve like
a large snowflake on the black mans tongue. After what
seemed an eternity, he piously pulled
it in. Suddenly opening his eyes, he spun on the crutch
and performed an about face, then limped back to the
pew. Blamo's gecko jerkiness startled Maurice from his
dreamy state. As a reflex, the seminarian jumped away,
stumbling on the altar step.
"Are you all
right?" asked Peter, with professional concern.
"Yeah, yeah," he
answered weakly, getting up, wiping his forehead with
the sleeve of his left arm. "Its my fever."
"Well, the paten
then!" he ordered with a nod, indicating that he was
eager to speed up the mass.
Toh, the cook back
at the mission house, always made such wonderful
breakfasts, and Peters stomach rumbled its anger.
Maurice began to
elevate the paten for the next recipient, but froze.
Through the lifting fog of incense approached a stunning
young woman, the color of milky brown chocolate. A
thousand rows of long hair, plaited with ivory cowry
shells draped her shoulder, tinkling like chimes.
Through large, sloe eyes, she watched the white men
before her carefully, conveying little. Her almost
Ethiopian nose ended just above an exquisitely chiseled
pair of lips, with salmon undertones. She walked
proudly, with her head held high and shoulders back. At
five-foot nine, she easily stood above the tribes
average female. Neither missionary had seen her during
their six weeks in the country.
Her dalo looked
new. Even in dim candlelight, cobalt blue, splashed with
silver and gold bordering, jumped out electrically. Open
at the left breast, the vibrant cloth revealed a naked
five-month old, sucking noisily. Distracted, the baby
gazed at the white men, but instantly shifted his
attention to the golden chalice. He reached for it. The
child's movement away from her breast left it visible.
Both men riveted their eyes on the large, firm, soft
brown cone of motherhood. At its center was an areola,
the size of an American silver dollar, from which poked
an erect, half-inch nipple. There, yellow-white drops
beaded and fell with the frequency of sap from a Vermont
Maple after a cold, early April night.
"Maurice!" Peter
whispered hoarsely, as his eyes knowingly caught the
seminarians.
"Yes," he
answered, studying the priest who had quickly refocused
nervously on the woman, his eyes lower than usual.
"The paten!" the
priest called, remembering his purpose.
"Of course, of
course," the novice consented, raising it, shifting his
attention from the priest to the woman.
Maurice peered
into her eyes and instantly spotted the bright sparkle
of intelligence. As he placed the paten beneath her
chin, she closed them and parted her mouth slightly,
extending an inch of flamingo-tinted tongue. Peter
stopped for a second. His lips opened unconsciously,
while his eyebrows arched, as he let her beauty envelope
him. She had caught them off guard.
Taking a wafer
from the rust-pitted, sacred chalice, he slowly brought
the dry white bread toward her succulent mouth. His hand
trembled noticeably. Just as he attempted to insert the
host, it bumped against her top lip and flipped like a
dry brittle leaf to the paten.
She opened her
eyes and glanced at both. Maurice lowered the plate to
Peters stomach level, so it would be out of the way of
the child, who was now busy grabbing for anything but
her breast. Father Peter boldly reached for the host
that lay on a particularly rusted corner. As he was
about to pick it up, his hand stopped in mid-air. Near
the patens center, where some shiny fake gold remained,
five drops of her milk flashed, having caught the sky's
delicate, saffron sunrise. She glanced at the paten, at
the men, then serenely closed her eyes and parted her
mouth. They stared from the paten to her
dripping breast, then from the pulsating ripe breast, to
her face, in awe.
This time, Peter,
despite more pronounced quivering, managed to
successfully insert his fingers and deposit the host
safely inside. She reopened her eyes, looking first at
the priest, then at Maurice, who thought he caught the
faintest wisp of a smile in the subtle movement of her
lips. Shifting the baby to her right hip, she slowly
closed the fold of dalo, turned,
and walked to the back of the church where she sat.
A short,
old-looking woman scuttled toward the altar, a crippled
crab trapped in a human body. Her old dalo, with a faded
picture of President Tolbert printed on the front,
wrapped a skeletal frame. Many poor women wore this
design because they were the cheapest. The Liberian
women joked that one could cover the country with the
material during election time. The President used the
clothing gimmick as an incentive to get people out and
voting, for the only person allowed to run for his
office.
The ancient woman,
probably not yet forty, dragged herself forward,
scraping the cold, concrete floor. Her knee-length lappa
exposed a normal left leg and a monstrous right one.
Elephantiasis! Despite the grotesque appearance, and
ungainly, blackboard-grating shuffle, she approached
with dignity. The woman extended her tongue in a
plaintive, spiritual manner, beseeching the heavens with
a supplication that betrayed her desperate faith.
Peters hand no
longer shook. He quickly dropped the host on her
withered tongue. She was the third and last recipient,
from a total congregation of seven. Turning, he ascended
the altars three steps. A rooster, outside the doorless,
ocean entrance, lined with large yellow and red
hibiscus, greeted the rising sun with a startling
screech.
The foaming
sapphire sea, streaked with dawns light, caught
Maurice's fevered eye. Large, twelve-foot swells roared
less than fifty yards from the open door, threatening
the shore, yet leaving instead, a gentle rainbow mist
that blew toward the church.
"Maurice, bring
the paten!" Peter commanded, staring down at him from
behind the altars center.
The oceans
alluring beauty, had captivated the delirious, almost
faint seminarian. He stood deaf, immobilized, stunned by
the sight of nine hollowed logs. In each ten-foot craft,
two men paddled furiously through the breakers. One
overturned. Its lashed sail broke free, tumbling
shoreward, just as a huge sea spit canoe and men
aground.
Once again, the
sudden transition from night to day took him aback. On
the equator, he realized, dusk and dawn were quick,
copulatory acts of light and dark, over in a few moments
when one abandoned the other. In the jungle, it was all
- or nothing. Time was precious, absolute. The sun was
either up, or it was down. One was alive, or one was
dead. It happened so quickly, cleanly. There was a
certain integrity to life on the equator, the young
seminarian reflected, that those in civilized, temperate
areas had yet to discover.
"Maurice ... the
paten!!"
"Yes ... yes ...
excuse me," he responded, turning hastily. As he did, a
goat entered the doorway and headed straight for the
violet and white orchids, placed around the altar. It
adroitly leapt the three steps and began munching.
"Eeeeeeeh, ta na
mu ah?" an old woman from the first pew screamed at the
beast. She jumped out of her seat and lurched in its
direction. The creature, indifferent to her query,
continued eating placidly. In her rush, she stumbled on
the first stair and fell against the seminarian on the
second.
Though soundly
knocked to the floor, Maurice managed to hold aloft the
paten that held a half-dozen sacred crumbs of the body
of Christ, and the five drops of milk. Like the good
altar boy of his youth, he took his job seriously.
Maurice's mother had taught him Latin when he was five,
so he could be an altar boy at seven, the earliest age
allowed. She had had a burning desire to offer up her
first-born son to God, to pay for the sin of becoming
pregnant with her only daughter, both deaf and mute,
before the sacred state of wedlock.
In those early
years of religious training, he had learned that the
smallest speck of bread was as important as the big host
that the priest ate. The Africans, however, didn't see
it that way. They had a song:
"The priest eats
the big piece and drinks the fine wine, but after we
pray for an hour, he gives us a small piece of very dry,
old bread, and no sweet wine."
"Excuse me, fala,"
offered the old woman, apologizing.
"Me no fala,"
answered Maurice, realizing, after he said it, that she
would fail to note the distinction between seminarian
and priest.
She rebounded
quickly and managed to grab the goat from the hind end.
It kicked her in the chest.
The creature eyed
the busy-body indifferently and continued eating, as she
lay gasping. Peter came from behind to help, but in his
haste, knocked over one of the quart bottles that the
locals wanted blessed during mass.
Each morning,
between five and twenty containers full of yellowish
river water greeted them at liturgy. The villagers
believed in the efficacy of prayer. Even from a
distance, however, before and after prayers, one could
see black creatures about half an inch long, the
thickness of fat thread, whipping about in the putrid
water. Fr. O'Sullivan, the blond, forty-year old priest
who headed the Catholic Mission, told both when they
arrived, that people drank the blessed water and used it
for enemas. This idea horrified them. Neither could
conceive of drinking it, much less letting amebas and
tiny worms explore intestinal inner recesses.
Maurice had asked
Fr. O'Sullivan why the Africans continued to bring the
water, since it was evident that the swimming beasts
were stronger than the most sincere prayer. The Mission
head explained that though they remained alive, prayer
voided their pathogenic prowess. Not wise enough to let
the matter drop, the seminarian arrogantly suggested
that this was not probable, as the clinic was filled
each day with sick church members, most likely from
drinking the turbid holy water.
Relentlessly, the
novice stupidly went on to imply that pills might be
better than prayer, and that the mission ought to dig a
large, clean well for the villagers. The relationship
between Maurice and his very traditional, Superior, Fr.
O'Sullivan, now only six weeks old, had not begun
auspiciously.
Peter had Maurice
accompany the woman to her pew. She smiled obsequiously.
Returning, he noticed that the goat had finished the
last orchid. Lifting its tail, the animal bid farewell,
by dropping thirty round pellets at the altars base,
then casually made for the open doorway.
The priest took
the paten. On it were two large crumbs, one medium, and
a few flecks the size of dandruff. Following the
religious prescriptions, Peter scraped the bread with
his right thumb toward the chalice. The largest absorbed
the milk. To his dismay, it turned into a gooey paste
that stuck to his dirty thumbnail.
"Get the cruets,"
he ordered, aggravated.
The novice
retrieved the small crystal bottles of water and wine
from the side table. He poured each over Peters fingers,
according to ritual. The paste dissolved, turning the
fluid slightly opaque. After swirling the solution three
times, he gulped it down, then grabbed the holy linen
towel that Maurice extended, and began wiping the
chalice.
"God!... did you
see her? Where's she been hiding?" Peter began,
squinting towards the back of the Church.
"How could I miss?
Hey ... you just got ordained a couple months ago.
You're on the honeymoon phase of celibate life. I saw
what you were staring at! You'd better get your head
together!" he half-joke.
"You know,
Maurice, you're a self-righteous, little prick. I hate
fanatics!" he whispered, handing back the wrinkled
linen. "Say ... do the boys bring over the crawfish for
breakfast, today or tomorrow?"
"Today."
"I love scrambled
eggs with prawns," the priest sighed.
"You know, Peter,
Toh's great cooking hasn't made eating together any more
pleasant."
"Maurice, a word
of caution," Peter began, gazing thoughtfully at the
seminarian. "O'Sullivan and I are ordained. You're on
the outside, looking in. For your sake, don't forget it.
Life'll be much easier for all, if you heed the
warning."
He returned to
center altar and continued his liturgical machinations.
Peters rote manner reminded Maurice of an auctioneer.
"The mass is
ended," he bellowed to the seven congregants.
"Bow your heads
and pray for Gods blessing!"
When it was over,
they walked down the altar steps toward the end of
Church to shake hands with the congregation. The bishop
of Monrovia had recently made this more blatant gesture
of hospitality, a fiat. The problem was that Protestants
were gaining numbers tremendously, and he was worried
about the competition. Protestant clergy didn't remain
aloof like
Catholic priests and nuns. Many were African and
married. In an environment where marriage and children
were as important as in Old Testament times, it would be
easy to conclude why their numbers were increasing
dramatically. The Irish Bishop, however, had lived in
Liberia for over twenty years, and dismissed these
factors, insisting that shaking hands
would be enough to improve public relations and increase
the Catholic count.
Peter walked
unusually quickly toward the back, but Blamo stopped
him, before he reached the exotic woman.
"Good morning,
fala," he gushed, after racing toward the priest with an
extended hand. Peter shook it limply. The old man nodded
to Maurice with insincere deference. He understood rank.
Peter put his hand on Blamo's shoulder and directed him
toward the rear, but the woman with elephantiasis
breathlessly grabbed his white robe.
"Fathal, fathal .
. ." she whined, hunched over humbly. Like many older
people in the tribe, she was unable to distinguish
between the L, and the R, sound. Despite the difficulty,
she clearly conveyed that in the mornings confusion
Peter had forgotten to bless the cholera water.
Peter glanced
longingly at the brown Madonna. She stood with her child
in the doorway, gazing at the ocean. He turned, stared
at the old lady, sighed with fatigue, and returned to
the dirty water on the altar.
"Father Peter,"
Maurice called with a grin, amused that the old woman
had thwarted the priests questionable plan. "I'll be at
the mission in a few minutes!"
In a moment, he
reached her. She was outside, watching the sea from the
shade of a large banana tree.
"Nu ah ni, na fuay
day?" he initiated, beginning the tribes formal greeting
pattern.
It literally
meant, "Hello, how's your body?" As he looked at her, he
couldn't help smiling at the irony of the question.
"Na fuay nu si on
nay, na day day?" she answered with a warm smile,
telling him she felt fine, returning the question.
He decided to skip
the conversational formalities that normally preceded
asking a name. Suddenly, he stopped to reflect, as he
did so often in meditation. Why was he as eager as Peter
was, to talk with the woman? Was he feeling so lonely,
after only six weeks in Africa, that he was desperately
grabbing the first warm person who came his way, without
regard for his position, as a seminary intern,
soon-to-be priest? Was he just admiring an exquisite
face, or were his unconscious drives, as a male, getting
the better of him? Maybe he was just trying to make a
friend - after all, wasn't he here as a Catholic
seminarian in Africa, to get to know people? He smiled
knowingly at his confusion, but decided hastily to go
with the flow and analyze his motives in greater detail
later.
"Ka nang gah nay
nu ah?"
"Wheea Dee
Nyuokprenh Nah," she responded, but my Christian name is
Mary.
"What does your
African name mean?"
"Mothers cry."
"For one with such
a beautiful smile the name seems sad. It doesn't match,"
he fumbled, grabbing for any words that would prolong
the conversation.
"When I was born,
my mother died, but before dying, she let out a loud
cry. The old women helping her give birth, pulled me
free and gave me this name."
Her bronze loops
danced in the soft, morning light, as her slightly
angled, oval head measured the man before her.
"And what is your
name?"
"Maurice."
"What does that
mean?" she prodded with an enigmatic, Mona Lisa smile.
"Why ... Its
French and means dark skin, or Moor," he answered
eagerly.
"Like one of the
Northern tribes! For true, you are not white like the
others. I must go. Excuse me," she remarked gently.
The naked baby on
her hip squirmed restlessly. With amazing agility, she
bent forward, placed the child upon her back, and, in a
moment, had him wrapped and hanging in her dalo.
"I must leave. It
is time to go to the farm," she offered with a slight
bow, before turning and heading east.
The coconut palms
rustled softly in the early morning breeze.
"You said you were
going to the farm, but they are West, not East!"
She stopped,
looked back and gazed at him intently.
"For true, but I
must change my dalo and get my machete and basket."
"Of course, of
course," he replied, shuffling nervously, realizing he
looked like a complete idiot.
Still, he pressed
on. . . "do you live near the field, where the cows go,
where the mission plane lands?"
"No, near the
Lebanese store, but not on the right in a rich house of
bricks. Mine is to the left and it is thatch."
"Oh, so you're not
far away, about a half-mile ... and how far to the left
of the store?"
"You ask many
questions!" she responded gaily, turning toward the
rising sun.
After taking eight
steps without breaking stride, she called back, "Four
huts to the left of the store, on the left side of the
path."
As she receded, he
returned to his thoughts. No, it wasn't loneliness, male
hormones, or friendship that had driven him to seek out
this Mona Lisa. He thought about living with Peter and
O'Sullivan at the mission compound. What had impelled
him was the profound sense of isolation he felt, after
only six weeks with his religious community - the
community he had aspired to be with in Africa for the
next two years, and possibly. . . for life.
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